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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.